Quand on parle du Chemin de Saint-Jacques, on pense souvent au Camino Francés. Mais il existe d'innombrables autres itinéraires du Chemin de Saint-Jacques. Tous ont pour destination le tombeau de l'apôtre Jacques à Santiago de Compostela. Cependant, le Camino Francés est le plus populaire : environ deux tiers des pèlerins choisissent cette route. Mais est-il possible de faire le trajet aussi à vélo ?
Bien sûr que c'est possible ! Et il est même officiellement reconnu comme un pèlerinage. Par rapport aux pèlerins qui se déplacent à pied, il suffit de faire cent kilomètres de plus à l'arrivée. Ensuite, tu recevras également ton certificat de pèlerinage au bureau des pèlerinages. Au total, ça fait deux cents kilomètres. Il faut savoir, que dans le passé, il n'était pas rare de faire le pèlerinage à cheval au lieu de le faire à pied. Même aujourd'hui, on peut encore rencontrer occasionnellement des cavaliers sur le chemin de Saint-Jacques. Cependant, le cheval, qui a fait ses preuves, a été remplacé par la bicyclette. Ce fait a également dû être pris en compte à Santiago.
Cependant, l'état des pistes risque de causer quelques difficultés au cycliste moyen qui utilise un vélo de randonnée. C'est pourquoi un itinéraire alternatif a été créé qui est facilement accessible avec le vélo: l'EuroVelo 3. Au fait, l'EuroVelo 3 est une route de pèlerinage à travers toute l'Europe. Pour une bonne part, elle suit exactement le Camino Francés en Espagne. Lorsque la route devient trop cahoteux, elle s'en dévie. En gros, j'ai essayé de trouver le bon équilibre entre les deux itinéraires. Sur l'itinéraire qui en resulte tu t'en sortiras bien avec un vélo de randonnée. Avec le Gravelbike, c'est un vrai plaisir ! Par contre je te conseille d'éviter de faire le trajet avec un vélo de route.
Le paysage en Espagne offre de nombreuses particularités. Tu seras étonné de la hauteur de l'intérieur de l'Espagne et du nombre de cols de montagne que tu traverseras à plus de 1000 mètres d'altitude. Tu découvriras des étendues de pays infinies où le ciel bleu contraste avec l'or des champs, des collines vertes et de denses forêts d'eucalyptus, comme en Australie. Dans les villes, tu rencontreras des véritables trésors culturels, des cathédrales construites de manière artistique et des tapas délicieuses à presque chaque coin de rue.
N'importe que soit la motivation de ton pèlerinage - qu'elle soit religieuse ou uniquement spirituelle, peut-être tu es à la recherche d'un défi sportif, peut-être tu veux apprendre d'autres cultures ou prendre un peu de distance de la vie quotidienne et gagner du temps pour toi-même - une chose est certaine: à la fin de ton voyage, quand les bornes de kilométrage indiquent des nombres de plus en plus petits, quand le dernier col de montagne est franchi, quand tu vois la cathédrale de Santiago ou le Cap Finisterre un peu plus loin, tu ressentiras un moment sublime. Le Chemin de Saint-Jacques sera un voyage dont tu pourras raconter des histoires pendant des années.
Au fait, le panneau indicateur sur le chemin de Saint-Jacques est la coquille Saint-Jacques jaune stylisée sur fond bleu. Ta destination se trouve là où ses rayons convergent. Parfois, cependant, elle pointe dans la mauvaise direction. Il faut donc faire attention à ne pas faire soudainement demi-tour avant d'arriver à Santiago. Heureusement tu peux suivre les flèches jaunes. Ils sont les deuxièmes panneaux indicateurs et un peu plus clairs à cet égard. Et bien sûr, tu as toujours komoot dans tes bagages, ce qui est très utile sur les routes alternatives.
J'ai divisé les 857 kilomètres jusqu'à Santiago en 19 étapes agréables, dont chacune peut être réalisée confortablement dans une demi-journée. Ainsi, tu auras assez de temps pour faire des rencontres avec les autres pèlerins et pour profiter au maximum du pays et ses habitants. Si les étapes sont un peu plus longues, je te donnerai des informations sur l'hébergement à mi-chemin dans le descriptif du parcours. De plus, tu trouves deux autres étapes dans la collection : elles te montrent le parcours de 90 kilomètres de Santiago jusqu'au Cap Finisterre. Cet itinéraire est un agréable prolongement du chemin de Saint-Jacques. Certains pèlerins choisissent cette route pour échapper à la foule à Santiago et pour être de nouveau pour eux-mêmes. Si tu es intéressé par l'ensemble de l'itinéraire de pèlerinage de l'EuroVelo 3, tu trouves tous les autres parcours dans la collection suivante : komoot.fr/collection/1077286
Comme le Camino Francés est très bien développé pour le tourisme, on y trouve presque plus de possibilités d'hébergement qu'il y a de coquilles Saint-Jacques dans la mer. Le meilleur sentiment du pèlerin se trouve dans les Albergues - les auberges de pèlerins. De plus, ils ne sont pas chers. Parfois il est même possible d'obtenir un lit pour un simple don. Cependant, les auberges sont souvent bondées, ce qui transforme le Camino en une véritable course aux lits (encore) vides. Comme tu as la possibilité porter un peu plus de bagages sur ton vélo, je te propose le camping comme une alternative relaxante aux auberges. En suivant les étapes de cette collection, tu trouveras toujours un camping ou une option similaire à proximité vers la fin de l'étape. Sur demande, tu peux parfois planter ta tente dans le jardin d'une auberge. Comme ça tu serais en excellente compagnie du pèlerinage le soir. Mais tu peux aussi passer la nuit traquil et sans être dérangé dans ta tente.
D'ailleurs, je te conseille de t'en fournir d'une carte de pèlerin avant de commencer ton voyage. Tu peux l'acheter soit dans les auberges à Saint Jean-Pied-de-Port, soit ailleurs sur le trajet. Tu peux également le commander en ligne sur les sites des associations jacquaires. Dans tous les logements, les églises ou monastères sur le chemin, tu peux obtenir un timbre dans ta carte. Lorsque tu arriveras à Santiago, tu présenteras ta carte de pèlerin au bureau des pèlerins - comme preuve que tu as fait le Chemin de Saint-Jacques pour de vrai. En retour, tu recevras un certificat de pèlerinage personnel: le "Compostela".
Je te souhaite un "Buen Camino !".
Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port - this is where the Camino Francés begins. The small village, which apparently consists almost exclusively of pilgrims' hostels, is one of the most famous entry points on the Way of St. James. For many, their pilgrimage begins right here.You too start here on the Camino Francés, but by bike. The EuroVelo 3 is based on the famous pilgrimage route and leads you through the impressive landscape of northern Spain south of the Cantabrian Mountains to Santiago de Compostela. Although the route deviates from the pilgrimage route in places, which in some places is very difficult to cycle on. Today, however, the route, like the pilgrimage route, leads you high into the mountains of the Pyrenees. That makes the first stage on the Camino Francés a medium-sized challenge. You will be rewarded with fabulous views and the company of other pilgrims.If you prefer to start the Camino a little more gently, you can alternatively follow the course of EuroVelo 3, which crosses the Pyrenees along the La Nive d'Arnéguy river and later leads into the valley of Arnegiko Errobi. That saves you 330 meters in altitude. However, it should be said that this route runs almost exclusively on a federal road. So you can expect a lot of traffic. You can find the tour to the alternative route here: komoot.de/tour/296430403Your destination for the day is southwest of Auritz at the Urrobi campsite. In addition to a campsite, you will also find accommodation in bungalows here.
Today, a few more meters of altitude await you at the beginning of the stage, then it goes comfortably downhill into the Arga Ibaia valley. After crossing the Pyrenees yesterday, you can look forward to a relaxed ride. First you follow the N-135 until you have reached the first hill and then turn right off the road onto a path. From here you are back on the Camino and it gets a bit bumpy. But there is a pilgrim feeling at its best and you follow the yellow arrows until you meet the national road east of Agorreta again.If you prefer to move a little faster, you can just stay on the main road. If you do not branch off from her, she will automatically lead you back to the tour. In terms of landscape and pilgrimage, the small detours off the main roads are worthwhile in every respect.Your today's destination is in Villava / Atarrabia, a suburb of Pamplona / Iruña. Don't let the duplicate place names confuse you. They are often listed in both Basque and the official “castellano”. If you follow the Río Ulzamo from here to the north, after about four kilometers you will reach the Ezcaba campsite shortly after Oricáin. Alternatively, you can drive a little further to Pamplona, where you will find some pilgrimage hostels and other accommodations.
Obtenez des recommandations sur les meilleurs itinéraires, pics, et lieux d'exception.
Coming from the suburbs you drive into the city center of Pamplona, circle the star-shaped citadel and arrive in the southwest to Cizur Menor, a small town outside of the big city, where there used to be a Johanniter monastery. Shortly afterwards, you branch off from the Camino de Santiago, which leads over increasingly difficult trails to the Sierra de Perdón.In contrast to the Camino, you overcome the mountain pass on a country road west of the pilgrimage route. At the pass, however, it is worth making a detour to the pilgrimage monument Alto del Perdón - one of the most popular photo opportunities on the Camino de Santiago.Via Puente la Reina you will soon reach your destination for the day just before Estella-Lizarra. Every now and then you leave the EuroVelo on the way to get a little pilgrimage feeling with you. Once you have reached your destination, you can either drive south on the small country road to the Lizarra Navarra campsite or stop at a hostel in town. If you prefer to do the stage in two days, you will find several hostels in Puente la Reina and a small campsite to the west of it.
Today's route takes you from Estella-Lizarra via los Arcos and Torres del Río to Logroño. Shortly before you reach the city you cross the border of the Autonomous Community of Navarre to La Rioja - red wine lovers will get their money's worth here, because in most restaurants even the cheap house wine is of excellent quality.If you want, you can start the day with a small glass, because after the first few kilometers the Bodegas Irache wine fountain invites you to a free tasting along the way. Don't overdo it, however, because there is still a fair bit of uphill to reach the highest point of the day. And even after that it remains hilly.At your destination of the day Logroño you will find a campsite in the northwest of the city on the banks of the Ebro, and there are several hostels to choose from in the old town. If there is some maintenance work to be done on the bike, I can recommend the Rollerbike bike shop in the southwest of the city. As a pilgrim, you will be served promptly and reliably here.
From Logroño you first drive past the Pantano de La Grajera to Navarette. The pretty village was built around a small cone hill and therefore stands out from the landscape from a distance. For a short distance the way runs along the motorway. On a fence that separates it from the busy road, pilgrims have erected a veritable hodgepodge of stylized crosses made of simple sticks that were stuck into the mesh of the fence.In Nájera you cross the valley of the Najerilla, from now on it goes increasingly uphill towards the Castilian highlands. At Alescano you can either stay on the main road LR-206 until you meet the tour again at Cañas or follow the route on its detour to the Monasterio de San Millán de la Cogolla in the south. If you decide to take the shortcut on the main road, this will save you a good 20 kilometers.You will reach your destination for the day at Santo Domingo de la Calzada. Camping Bañares is located east of your destination. There are two pilgrim hostels in the village. If you prefer to do the stage in two days, Nájera is the ideal place to stay overnight. However, there is no campsite there.
Today's stage is less than 30 kilometers a day and only a few meters in altitude a lot more relaxed than yesterday. Time to breathe, regenerate and enjoy the country and its people. Halfway through the Redecilla del Camino you reach the border with the autonomous community of Castile and León. So it can be worthwhile to stop by a bodega and pack a bottle of Rioja for an evening among pilgrim friends.In Belorado you will reach your today's destination. There is no campsite here, but the El Salto hostel just outside in the southwest of the village also offers a place for your tent if you ask for it. There is a small selection of other pilgrimage hostels in the village itself.
Shortly after Belorado you cross the valley of the Río Tirón, then it goes increasingly uphill. At first the ascent is quite gentle, then the Río Oca marks the last almost flat point before you can expect inclines of ten percent over the next two and a half kilometers.The ground during the ascent consists of fine gravel, but you have your peace and quiet on the comfortable path and you can take it a little slower if you want. Alternatively, a little further south, the main road N-120 leads to the La Pedraja pass. It is ideal if you want to be a little faster on the road. Once at the top, at 1,150 meters, you have now reached the highest point since the Pyrenees. An ideal moment for a short break and a photo.After an enjoyable descent you will reach Atapuerca. From here, the tour makes a wide detour around the Sierra de Atapuerca, which, by the way, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site due to extraordinary archaeological finds. If you have an all-terrain bike, you can also follow the yellow arrows over the mountain. Once at the top, one of those typical wooden crosses awaits you, where pilgrims put down a stone they have brought with them.It won't be long before you will reach Burgos, today's destination. The local campsite Fuentes Blancas is located south of the destination on the banks of the Río Arlanzón. In the city center you will also find a manageable selection of pilgrimage hostels.
In addition to a visit to the cathedral, it is also worth making a detour to the castle in Burgos, from which you can enjoy an amazing view over the city. Then it goes to the west out of the city.In the meantime, the landscape has also changed increasingly. You are in the heart of the Castilian plateau - the Meseta Central. It describes a total area of over 200,000 square kilometers and will therefore accompany you for a long time. Depending on the season, you can expect great contrasts between blue skies and golden fields or a fresh green. But the wind can also blow in the same direction for several days. With a little luck you can call him your ally and have him behind you.Your destination for today is in Hontanas. In the garden of the Juan de Yepes hostel you can pitch your tent here on request. There are also three other pilgrim hostels where you can find accommodation for the night.
From Hontanas we continue through the Iberian Meseta to Carrión de los Condes. Shortly after Castrojeriz you have the choice. Either you follow the tour over the Alto de Mostelares, a mountain that seems to stand half lost in the landscape, or you drive around it in the north via Castrillo Mota de Judíos. Then you will meet up again on the Río Pisuerga.The ascent up the mountain is worthwhile - even if it means having to push the steep incline for a moment. At the top you have a fantastic view over the Meseta, small cone mountains rise in the otherwise absolutely flat landscape and new windmills form the conclusion on the horizon. With a little imagination, a touch of Don Quixote wafts around the scenario - let's just forget for a moment that you are not in Castile-La Mancha.In your destination for the day, Carrión de los Condes, you will find a good selection of pilgrim hostels and the Eden campsite on the outskirts in the southwest.
The landscape still hardly changes noticeably, but this is exactly what makes this wasteland so attractive. There is also a lot to discover: artistically designed irrigation canals, beautiful dry thistles along the way and small storage cellars, the entrances of which peek out from the hills as if you had landed at the wrong time of the year in the Shire with the hobbits.The destination of today's route is Sahagún. A handful of pilgrim hostels are spread across the village and in the west, slightly outside the sports fields, you will find a place to pitch your tent at the Pedro Ponce campsite.
From Sahagún, the Camino takes you today via Reliegos to the gates of León. Enjoy the flat landscape of the Castilian plateau again before it slowly but surely gets a little more mountainous again in the next few days.In Reliegos, a stop at the unique Bar Elvis is definitely worthwhile. Here every pilgrim after a Cerveza has probably said one or the other saying and left it there. By the way, nobody in Spain orders a cerveza in a bar. You order a caña. Sometimes a pinta or jarra when you're thirsty.At your destination shortly before León is the turnoff to the Ciudad de León campsite. This is about two kilometers north on the LE-5510. In León itself you also have a good selection of different pilgrimage hostels.
After you have made a little round through the old town of León to the cathedral, you drive a short distance in the west of the city on Via de la Plata until you have left the busy streets behind and in the south-west again on EuroVelo 3 turn in.The journey continues over Villar de Mazarife and seemingly endless fields to Hospital del Órbigo, where your destination for the day is. You will find the local campsite directly north of your destination. There is also a good selection of hostels in town.
It is not far from Hospital del Órbigo and you will reach Astorga. Here you can take a long break, look at the city with its impressive architecture or just take a breather and recharge your batteries, because from then on it slowly but surely goes uphill again and you get closer to the border with Galicia. Mountains appear on the horizon, the Cantabrian Mountains are getting closer and in the southwest the gently rising valley is bordered by the Montes de León.At the end of the stage, you crack the 1,000 meter mark again and reach your destination for the day at just under 1,150 meters. In Rabanal del Camino you will find some pilgrim hostels for the night and a simple but very friendly campsite, the Green Garden. In the hostels, too, it is worth asking if you can pitch your tent.
The day begins with an ascent, but after seven kilometers the roughest is over. You are at almost 1,500 meters and therefore significantly higher than in the Pyrenees. A large iron cross marks the highest point of the Camino Francés here. Incidentally, over the decades this will get higher and higher, because according to an old custom, pilgrims place a stone here on their way to Santiago.For about six kilometers you drive along the mountain ridge, then an enjoyable descent to Ponferrada awaits you. You cross a wide plain and turn into the valley of the Río Valcarce at Villafranca del Bierzo. While the mountains are piling up to the left and right of you, you follow the water gently rising up the river.Your destination for the day is just after Trabadelo. If you follow the small country road to the south at the destination, you will reach the Valle do Seo campsite after about one kilometer. Shortly before, in the village of Trabadelo, you will also find a good selection of pilgrimage hostels.
After a ten-kilometer warm-up phase through the valley of the Río Valcarce, today you will embark on the so-called Camino Duro - the hard way. It will take you high up once more, to the mountain pass that separates the Galician from the Castilian plateau. Roughly you stick to the pilgrimage route, but you avoid the difficult climbs on small roads.At the top of the pass you reach O Cebreiro and cross the border with Galicia. Here in the mountains the weather can get a bit uncomfortable - but maybe you are lucky and can enjoy the fantastic view of the surrounding area. You stay on the pass road and after a few kilometers you will reach Alto San Roque. The monument there shows a pilgrim whipped by wind and weather - it is one of the most photographed motifs on the Camino.At Alto do Poio you will reach your today's destination. Here in the middle of the mountains there are two simple pilgrims' hostels that also offer something to eat and a fantastic view too, should the fog not hang in the valleys. If you want to pitch your tent, you can inquire about a camp spot at Albergue El Puerto. There is a small meadow behind the house.
Today you can expect a refreshing descent to Sarria. In places it gets a little flatter, which takes the momentum out of the wheels, but the tough climbs of the last few days are now done. If you prefer to save yourself the little extra hump at the beginning of the route, you can initially just make do with the main road.The panorama over the thick, green hills is breathtaking and no comparison to the dry landscape of the Meseta Central from a few days ago. It's almost as if you've suddenly landed in a completely different country - not many are familiar with this evergreen side of Spain.Soon you will reach the course of the Oribio, which you will follow to Samos. From here the tour follows the Camino again and branches off from EuroVelo 3 for a while. It is of course easier if you stay on the main road, but a short excursion to the idyllic countryside is worthwhile. In addition, the route is paved throughout.Your destination for the day is just before Sarria, where the Vila de Sarria campsite is located. In the village you will also find a large selection of pilgrim hostels. As you will notice, it's not uncommon on the further way, because the closer you get to Santiago, the more pilgrims are on the way. For reasons of time or energy, many only begin their journey in this corner of Spain, because you officially “only” have to walk a hundred kilometers (or two hundred by bike) to get the “Compostela” pilgrimage in Santiago.
Although you have already made the Camino Duro behind you, the area is still criss-crossed by many small hills, which gives the route profile a lot of altitude. Even switching to the main road is of little use and would only mean giving up the wonderful landscape.With the landscape, the language has changed again. Most people speak in Spanish that is quite understandable, but only in very rural regions is only Galician spoken. But place names and other signs are now clearly different from those before. If you've been to Portugal before, you'll notice a certain similarity between the two languages.At Portomarín you cross the Embalse de Belesar. The dam was built in the middle of the 20th century and dammed the Río Miño, one of the most important rivers in the region, into a lake. Portomarín used to be on its bank and was completely flooded when the reservoir was built. Therefore, it was simply rebuilt a little further up the slope. When the water level in the lake is low, you can still discover one or two remains of the original village.After Portomarín, it goes up the mountain again for a good stretch, then you reach your destination for the day just after Ligonde. The La Fuente del Peregrino hostel also offers a campsite on request. A little further along the way, near Portos, you will find another option to pitch your tent at the A Paso de Formiga hostel.
The local landscape has a certain positive aura, that cannot be denied. Over gentle hills, on rural roads through small hamlets, cozy houses made of dry stone walls and the Galician pantries traditionally built on stilts come into the picture. Eucalyptus groves and mixed forests alternate with lush green meadows and fields. Enjoy this rest as best you can, because from tomorrow there will be a lot more going on on the Camino.Via Palas del Rei and Melide you finally get to Arzúa, your today's destination. You can ask for a place for your tent at the Vía Láctea hostel. You can also choose from a variety of other hostels as accommodation. It may be worth making a reservation, because it is slowly getting crowded on the Camino de Santiago. In Arzúa the Camino del Norte meets the Camino Francés and shortly before that in Melide the Camino Primitivo.
Today the last stage on the Camino de Santiago welcomes you at dawn - a venerable moment. During the last few days you have certainly not missed how the kilometers on the way markers are getting smaller and smaller. 49.2 is on your very personal milestone today when you get on your bike and start to ride towards your destination.The EuroVelo 3 branches off the pilgrimage route again today and runs through a forest area north of the Río Ulla. Of course, you will get ahead faster if you follow the N-547 national road. The Camino itself is slightly offset to the north to this.But since there is certainly no reason to rush on the last few kilometers and the pilgrimage route itself is likely to be quite crowded, the EuroVelo 3 route is a good alternative to the Camino and leads you through the seclusion of the woods before you go the Monte do Gozo see the cathedral of Santiago. An old pilgrimage describes that the first person from a group of pilgrims who sees the cathedral from here was allowed to call himself a pilgrim king. The interesting thing is that many family names, such as "König", "King" or "Rey" can be traced back to this custom.It is said that every pilgrim is welcomed in his very own way in Santiago - which doesn't necessarily mean that everyone on the roadside greets you cheerfully. Maybe it is just a small, personal moment looking at the cathedral, a waving passer-by on the side of the road or a friendly honking car. The pilgrimage mass begins daily at 12 noon. If you have already visited the pilgrims' office beforehand, registered yourself there and received your Compostela, your name and the starting point of your trip will even be read out during the mass. Another venerable moment on your journey.
For some pilgrims, the Way of St. James does not end in Santiago de Compostela - be it because they still have time before their return flight, or because they cannot find the peace they want in the hustle and bustle of Santiago at the end of their pilgrimage. The Camino Finisterre, which strictly speaking is not an independent Way of St. James, as it begins in Santiago instead of ending there, is a nice way to extend the Camino and at the "end of the world" to see the sea in a contemplative moment.The path leads out of Santiago in the west. After just a few kilometers, you have left the city bustle behind and immerse yourself in dense eucalyptus forests. Past Liãres you follow the Río Tambre for a short distance and keep northwest from Negreira. You will be amazed at the tranquility that you encounter here again after all the hustle and bustle of pilgrims.You will reach your destination for the day in Vilaserío, where you will find two pilgrimage hostels, which will be happy to provide you with a campsite on request.
From Vilaserío the path leads you increasingly west. The eucalyptus forests give way to an open, spacious landscape. The view is only limited here by a small chain of hills in the west - otherwise you could theoretically already see the sea. Shortly after Vilar do Castro you will reach the highest point of today's tour on the slope of Monte Aro. In places, the Encoro da Fervenza reservoir peeps out from between the hills.Shortly before reaching the beach town of Cee, the time has come and you can see the sea from a hill. The cape itself is still hidden behind the next headland. The stretch along the coast offers you many opportunities for a break on the beach. If you would like to take a bath in the Atlantic at the end of your trip, now is the perfect opportunity. At the cape you should avoid a descent to the sea, the rocks are steep and the surf merciless. Bathing there can be life-threatening.The last campsite on the Cape is located in Estorde, about eleven kilometers from your destination. Here you can, if you want, pitch your tent and drive the last stretch to the cape without luggage. Alternatively there are some hostels in the village of Fisterra.Last but not least, it goes up the mountain a bit again, then you can see the lighthouse above the hilltop. Until the Middle Ages, this place was believed to be the most western point of Europe and was also referred to as the “end of the world”. I would be interested to know whether the pilgrims at that time had the same feeling after their arrival at the Cape, when they turned around and started back again, as I did when I reached Cape Finisterre on my journey: "This is where the world may end, but seen from a different point of view, this is the beginning. "